My Choice Villas Blog

Here are a few words on the realities of living in France and is it always the “rosey’ picture you get on TV programmes.

First, there is a very good monthly English newspaper, produced by an English, husband and wife team that gives all sorts of useful and mainly factual, information about modern French life. It is well worth subscribing to this paper, delivered by post, as includes all sorts of details about things that concern ex-pats and provides a useful “bridge”. See: http://www.connexionfrance.com

Second, the French are not the best self publicists. In fact my opinion is that they are their own worst enemies when it comes to creating a good image and publicising their business attributes.

This is particularly borne out by the outward appearance of shops and supermarkets, which in UK terms might reasonably be described as needing a ‘good scrub’ or a serious revamp. In the main, the exterior of public and private building fare no better.

Your only solution is ‘not to judge the book by its cover’ but to simply find out the truth by “going inside”.

On a personnel level the French don’t push themselves nearly as much or as hard as the British. A fact noted to me by the French manager of my local mini-market.

In their defence I would guess the high taxes and history of France lead to a philosophy that says “I know the inside is good; it’s up to you to trust me and find out”

In the main I have found the average French person to be honest and trust worthy. However as with “image” the concept of blindly good “Customer Service” also lacks a degree of ‘zing’ to it. If you expect company employees to fall over themselves to get and retain your custom you are in for a bit of a shock.

Yes, they will deliver, yes, they will provide quality products etc, but in their own time, and, sometimes only when pushed into it.

Sadly, some of the worst offenders are the big internationals rather than the smaller family owned organisations.

Artisans are a law unto themselves. Whilst standards of workmanship are usually good their ‘project management’ skills are often poor or non-existent. It is not uncommon to have to chase several times to get them to provide quotes or to start or complete the work, and they will often only offer superficial advice.

The reasons for this are not at all clear, but it is said that there is a great shortage of skilled artisans, so I suppose they may have to prioritise their work based on urgency, and, they can pick and choose.

However once the work is completed the final account will arrive “promptly” often on the final day of completing work….

Whether it is generally cheaper in France compared to the UK is rather dependent on where you live. I believe a rule of thumb would say if you live in the southern half of the UK, or London, then France is cheaper. If you live in the Midlands or North of the UK then it may be the same or more expensive.

TVA (VAT), varies according to the work and whether, if it relates to work on your property, it is your primary residence. When formally accepting the quote you are usually asked to sign a declaration as to your relationship with the property. Since this is part for the tax laws there is no way of avoiding it.

Some works can be set against income tax payable in France as it might relate to eco-friendly schemes examples include; wood burning stoves and modern efficient heating boilers come within this category.

I have a fridge magnet which states “You are no-one until you’ve been ignored by a cat”. The same is true of French artisans… A French acquaintance of mine has often confirmed this to me, which may account for the thriving DIY business, which produces many useful and quality products.

The Health Service, reputed to be the “best in the world” is, sadly, also very bureaucratic and takes a bit of experience to understand. Any medical consultation, procedure etc is almost always accompanied by paperwork that the patient has to deal with. Healthcare, in some of its forms, is not “free at point of delivery” as in the UK. Refunds have to be applied for, which can depend on your status, income and insurance cover. If you have “top-up” health insurance, this often means 2 letters have to be sent each time to obtain a full refund.

In summation, if you expect to live in France and get the same or better levels of service to those in the UK you may be disappointed. If you just want an overall better quality of life and are prepared to downgrade some expectations then life can be very pleasant without so many of the social pressures associated with a small overcrowded island.

Letter from France 4

By ‘Nom de Plume de Normandie’

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Before starting my next letter, I must tender my sincere apologies to anyone I may have misled, as indeed was I misled, regarding the need to carry certain items in your car when in France.According to the English language newspaper, The Connexion, published mainly for ex-pats living in France, is it NOT a legal requirement to carry a red warning triangle, a first aid kit or a fire extinguisher. This would seem that the ‘myth’ has been largely propagated by some ferry companies and motoring organisations to further the sales of such items.In fact, according to The Connexion, who has spoken directly to french officials, it is only a legal requirement to display a GB sticker on the rear of the car and to fit appropriate headlight deflectors.This ‘myth’ has been circulated for many years - I wonder if we are all entitled to a refund!!

The defence seems to go along the lines of ‘we offer such ‘advice’ as a safety measure’.

The whole matter has now been passed over to the UK Trading Standards Office.

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Before continuing with my next major letter, I thought it would make a change to provide some insight on a few things which, from my observations, seem to define ‘Frenchness’.These are, of course, only my observations, and may or may not be accurate or true. They are also meant to be taken light-heartedly with a sense of fond amusement.The first one is illustrated by the answer to the question, ‘what make of car should I drive?’Well, most French seem to favour one of the traditionally French names, Renault, Citroen, Peugeot etc. I can only assume they believe that if it is from a ‘French’ company it must be French. The fact that it is made from materials and parts that come from all over the world seems to escape them. Some are not even assembled in France!

My second illustration comes from a story about a Polish plumber who came to Paris to find work.

He spoke French reasonably well, knew his job and was conscientious and hard working, but found it almost impossible to get any work, until he realised that his Polish name was the problem. He changed his name to one that was, and sounded French, and never looked back.

As he explained, there is always a shortage of plumbers, but the French would rather go without or wait a long time for the work to be done rather than employ someone who wasn’t French. It is also strange as, generally, they don’t like to do jobs that entail getting their hands dirty. Once he had changed his name he also found that no Customer ever complained he wasn’t French once he met them and were quite happy to let him get on with the work and pay him the going rate.

My next story concerns the attitude to the very ‘basic’ subject of sewerage and waste water disposal and treatment.

I recall that for many years, the plumbing systems and sewers were a standing joke amongst visiting English tourists. I can also remember the time when no-one would drink water from the tap and, quite often, particularly in the cities, there was always the smell of drains wafting around the streets.

Well those days have gone and the tap water, for the most part, is perfectly drinkable if a bit chlorinated in some parts of the country.

However, they are still struggling to come to terms with the consequences of drinking and eating, and, the treatment of waste water in all its forms.

Many small towns and villages are still without main sewers and direct access to modern treatment works, relying on septic tanks and the tankers that regularly come to empty them.

It is a quirk of the Administrative System that has given the local Mayors the responsibility for dealing with the problem, but not the budget to with which to change much for the better.

Since 2006 a survey has been instigated to determine the extent of the problem and, I can only assume, come up with a plan to deal with it. We live in hope!

Finally despite their envied reputation for good food and quality restaurants, ‘junk’ food is plentiful and many towns have a MacDonald’s or equivalent.

Chinese restaurants are on the increase too, but, sadly for me, Indian restaurants hardly exist outside the Cities.

I have to say that I have only ever had one ‘bad’ meal in France. In fact it was so bad as to be inedible. The good news is that it wasn’t in a French restaurant. It was, in fact, an Indian restaurant in Fontainebleau - we live and learn!

Letter from France

By ‘Nom de Plume de Normandy’

I’m not sure if it’s me getting older or that I am just always busy, but the time seems to fly by, as has another month.

I promised to give an insight into owning a car, when living in France. It really isn’t very much different to the UK except that there isn’t any road tax - I hear a loud cheer - you pay anyway but via a different method - general taxes.

UK, RH-drive, cars may be registered in France and driven without any problems from the Police or Authorities, however there are a few things worth knowing.

Before your final UK tax, MOT and/or insurance expires you must first obtain an ‘Import Licence’, (Certificat d’Acquisition), from your local French tax office. To do this you must take the logbook and proof of residency, a utility bill, together with your passport. The service is free but without this document you will not be able to re-register your car.

To obtain a ‘Carte Gris’, the French equivalent of a logbook, and to get a French registration number, you must go to your local Prefecture offices and get a copy of the relevant form, (Demande d’Identification - pour voiture particulière uniquement). Having completed the form take this, the log book, and the import document back to the Prefecture where they will issue you with a Carte Gris and a French registration number for the car. There is a fee involved and this varies according to whether or not you have, the relevant, original, manufacturer’s EEC conformancy, (Certificat de Conformité) document issued when the car was new.

If you car is 4 years old or more you will also need a ‘Contrôle Technique’ document, the French equivalent of an MOT certificate. You will also need an insurance document.

In the first instance it is worth going to the main dealer for your make of car and getting them to carry out the Contrôle Technique as they will know the ropes and know what to do if there are any problems i.e. re-testing etc. Assuming your car is in good condition passing the French ‘MOT’ shouldn’t be a problem as the requirements are much the same as in the UK. You will need the ‘MOT’ ‘pass’ document to apply for a Carte Gris.

After the first test subsequent tests are only required every 2 years unless you are told otherwise.

If your car is less than 4 years old the date for the first Contrôle Technique will be shown on the Carte Gris.

Once all the documents are complete and you have the Carte Gris, you can go to your service garage and order your French number plates.

Your local Prefecture office may be the one in the Department capital - mine is in Rouen - or it may be a sub-office. For instance Seine Maritime has 2 offices - one in Rouen and the other is in Dieppe.

Insurance can be bought direct from any appropriate Insurance Company or via your local bank. Beware - insurance cover varies considerably, although car insurance is based along much the same lines as in the UK, with a minimum legal requirement of 3^rd party. Before buying it is worth doing some research, and, don’t be afraid to ask questions. You will not be able to use your UK renewal notice to get a no-claims discount this will start from scratch as if you were a first-time insuree.

A useful website,

http://riviera.angloinfo.com/countries/france/cartegrise.asp#change,

although originally aimed at those moving to the South of France, has a lot of detailed information regarding driving in France. It is well worth a read and also contains information on what to do in the event of an accident.

Your UK driving licence can be retained, normally without limit, unless you are involved in an accident or infringe a traffic law, such as being caught for speeding. Although not strictly enforceable, the French Police will expect you to exchange your UK licence for a French one, especially after more than 1 years residence.

Again this is done at your local Prefecture office. You will need 2 passport photos. Having received your new licence, the Prefecture will take your old UK licence and return it to the UK. There is one main advantage in having a French licence in that there is no upper age limit as in the UK.

My experience of the Prefecture offices is that they are very friendly and helpful, and, everything can be done while you wait. Mine even has a passport photo machine on one of the floors, but, don’t expect them to speak English. If they do you will be in luck.

When you apply for your insurance make sure they give you a copy of the standard form to use in the event of an accident. If possible this is completed at the time of the accident and will help to speed your claim.

Also don’t forget to tell the DVLA you have exported your car or you may remain liable to UK Road Tax.

Finally, remember that in France, as in many other EU countries, you will need to carry a regulation warning triangle, a first aid kit and a fire extinguisher, although I have never been asked to show these.

Letter from France 2

By ‘Nom de Plume of Normandy’

Well, here we are again and another month has flown by.

This month I thought I would give a small insight into driving in France for the holiday maker. Next month I will try and cover some of the aspects for those of you who are planning on living here.

‘Well’ its simple’ I hear you say, ‘you just drive on the other side, observe the rules and everything will be fine!’

In a simple way you would probably be correct, except you will find a number of basic things could catch you out.

First the speed limits are different, even when converted to mph. The main ones are, and here I will quote them all in kph with the approximate mph equivalent in brackets:

30 (18) - usually found near schools and areas where there maybe a large number of pedestrians. These may also be accompanied by humps in the road.

50 (31) - usually found in town centres, side roads, and through villages.

70 (43) - For approach roads to villages and towns, and some through roads in towns and villages.

90 (55) - Most 2 or 3 lane ‘Route Nationals’ or main trunk routes that are not classified as motorways.

100 and 110 (62 and 68) - Dual carriageways, and, motorways when wet/raining or where indicated.

130 (80) - Motorways when dry.
Well that sounds simple enough - except the start and end of speed limits are not always well marked and you are expected to know when to use the appropriate one. As an example the 70 kph limit for approach roads and towns are only often marked by the presence of the town’s name sign. Similarly the end of the restriction is marked by the town’s name sign which you will see as you leave the town. This is in black and white and will have a diagonal red bar through it.

The presence of ‘reminder’ signs are almost non-existent except where the authorities have experienced higher levels of accidents so you must constantly remind yourself what speed limit prevails.

The French have installed quite a few speed cameras which are clearly marked, but they also use mobile patrols, which these days, due to the technology involved, are almost impossible to spot before it is too late.

The minimum fine for speeding is €90.00, usually ‘on the spot’, and this rises sharply if you don’t pay within a few days.

Note: By the time you read this the promised ‘points transferred to your UK licence’ may also have been put into force. The French police ‘take no prisoners’ and expect you to have all your papers in the car.

Priorité à Droite - ‘Give way to traffic coming in from the right’ has all but disappeared. However, from time to time you may find small roads both in towns and in the countryside where this ‘quaint’ custom still exists. The reason why it still exists is unclear - force of habit, or, because the local Mayor, responsible for local roads, hasn’t the money to paint the road or change the signs. Old habits die hard in France!

Finally a brief word on finding petrol - petrol stations are not so frequent, especially outside major towns and villages. My rule is never to allow the tank to get more than half empty, particularly at weekends. Most stations now have pumps that take credit cards, but my experience is that UK bank and credit cards don’t always work and most supermarket petrol stations, although open 24/7, are unattended outside normal working hours and for the legendary 2 hour lunch break.

Smaller, privately owned, petrol stations, particularly outside major towns are closed at night, Saturday afternoons and on Sundays. These will also almost certainly be closed over the lunch break. My advice is to plan your longer journeys and keep the tank topped up.

Service stations on the motorways and toll roads, (‘Peages’), are also infrequent, sometimes non-existent. On the Peages, particularly, the distances between off-slip roads can be long (20 to 30 miles), and, you may have to pay to get off and pay to get back on again. The services offered are limited although some Peages offer picnic areas with toilets etc but these are not necessarily together with a petrol station.

Letter from France 1

By ‘Nom de Plume of Normandy’

Before starting a real letter from France I thought I should set the scene of modern France.I will try and be as accurate as possible, but you should always bear in mind any views are merely personal ones and any humour I might try and inject is also mine alone.

Much has changed since I first came to France in 1954; travelling with a schools exchange and crossing the channel in an old rusting British Rail ferry from Newhaven. (The crossing still takes over 4 hours, despite many advances in technology).

It was barely 10 years since the end of the Second World War; both England and France were still showing many of the scars of battle.

Today, most of these reminders of war have gone along with the Citroen Traction, (Light and Big 15), so much a part of the French Police, and, Pink Panther and Maigret films.

The smart blue uniform of the Gendarmerie, with its blue cape and kepi, has been replaced, except for special duties and ceremonial occasions, with a wash-and-wear ‘boiler suit’ uniform and ‘baseball’ cap.

Strangely, this ‘boiler suit’ much resembles the one that used to be worn, along with the obligatory beret, by nearly all ‘artisans’, who themselves now mainly wear ordinary clothes when going about their daily business.

The aroma of Gitanes or Gauloise (‘Disque Bleu’), emanating from bars and cafes no longer waft around the streets and alleyways, although both brands are still available, and it is rare to see ‘Défense de Fumer’ and ‘Défense de Cracher’ stencilled on walls, by well meaning public servants, for the good of everyone’s health.

That ‘much ridiculed’ piece of architecture, epitomised in the novel Clochemerl, and so essential to the comfort of man after a night in the local bar, the Pissoir, with its black metal fretwork, circular construction and open roof has almost entirely disappeared from the street landscape.

Most cities do now offer the modern concrete and automated alternative, but these lack a ‘certain social advantage’ in as much as they no longer offer the opportunity to discuss a political point with one’s neighbour whilst making oneself more comfortable and ready for the journey home.

Strangely some things never change. Many French businesses, including many of the family owned business, which survive despite the supermarkets and international chain stores, still open and close at differing times and days of the week according to the family needs and demands of the customers. Many small businesses are closed on Mondays and the 2 hour lunch break is still very much part of the French working day; with an early start and a late finish being quite normal as is the ‘mad dash’ to the Mediterranean coast, for the obligatory 4 week summer holiday, at the end of July.

French schools still close at the end of June and do not reopen until the beginning of September.

Finally, it is said, of this secular state, that every man/woman is entitled to his/her individuality. This is respected and I, for one, hope this never changes.

My next letter will try and uncover some of the differences in driving in France and I will endeavour to provide some useful hints on surviving these differences.